Revisiting Baler. Go East!

Revisiting Baler. Has Baler changed after 1998 and Yoyong/Reming in 2004?

What's has become of Baler after the 2004 typhoon cut it off from the rest of Luzon. Has it lost its appeal? Has the already inaccessible become more inaccessible? Two ways to get there, the original road via Bongabon at the slope of Sierra Madre (121 kms from Cabanatuan junction in about 4 hours) and the Canili-Pantabangan-Rizal Road that cuts through the Sierra Madre at the upper North (about 101 km in less than 4 hours). The Bongabon route is challenging to both the truck and the driver. The Canili gorge that must drop to over a thousand feet from the dam wall is awesome.

With strong cold winds and incessant wave sounds, it is like still Christmas on Holy Thursday in Sabang and Cemento. The Pacific Ocean sets up the playround for board surfing even during summer. These conditions in spite of the long and slowm bumpy and jumpy land travel has made Baler a destination to thrill seeking adventurers.

Pagasa is now manned by the team of Arthur, Jun and Elvie with an upgraded land tracking radar. Solar cells provide power supply to the low wattage equipment like computers and monitors but a generator runs the critical device, the tracking radar. Personnel rely more on cell phone technology which has taken over their exclusive band frequencies to secure data from national and international offices. Like the predecessor Mang Amado, they are gregarious even to unexpected visitors like us. The scenery from the radar roof deck gives one a panoramic landscape of the Eastern edge of the Philippines. Arthur recounts how magnificently the sunrise showed up at the Pagasa station at the turn on the millennium 31 December 1999 to the delight of the international sunray watchers.

Aurora is linked via cell and the internet. 1998 Go East article is posted at the batangbaler.com website. Surfing now means board surfing and internet surfing whereas before linkage to Baler was only via Pagasa, the military and government offices. The residents narrate that Baler was the last bastion of the 1899 Filipino-Spanish war for the simple reason that the forty soldiers and 4 officers did not know the war has ended. End of war was announced January 1899. Report reached Baler on 2 June 1899, 6 months after the declaration.

A concrete fish port has been constructed. It serves as a central exchange for boat riding fishermen, a landmark doubling as a province' point of interest. At the edge you see the bay from another vantage point.

Sabang is the center of action late afternoon, centro the venue for devotion and contrition. On late afternoons during the Holy Week, two live actions are happening simultaneous within striking distance-the exhibition of surfers at the bay and the pagaspas and procession at the Centro. Their proximity allows the reluctant penitent and vacationer to cover both.

There is no tag price to nature. Bay Inn, our casually appointed clubhouse is a backpackers' paradise. Bay Inn personnel are service oriented, the food and facilities satisfying. The variety of food offered at superior value and courteous service makes keeps you coming back for the next meal. The staffs' handy info on the province' various points of interest makes even a transient feel that he has not left home.

There is an abundance of pristine natural resources in great magnitude. While rich in history, Baler to the uninitiated is an imagery of kilometers of coastline, hectares of tropical forests, series of mountain ranges, water falls and natural spring water, century old trees and high and forceful waves.

The Baler Boy is still helpful and accommodating. Everyone you meet gives the right direction to any destination. No one puts a value to their goods and services. At Mang Emilio De La Torres' resort in Barangay Pingit, we only paid for the price of a fast food value meal for camping and for the use of the entire facilities.

What makes one keep coming back to Baler? It remains to be the destination for recluse that offers courtesy and hospitality, basic and affordable amenities and power-packed action in a natural setting.

Thank you Baler.

8 April 2007
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GO EAST!
Surf and Trek in Baler Aurora
-Chito Razon

You’ve explored Sagada after reading Mabuhay Magazine. Set foot on the highest land in Luzon Mt. Pulag mainly out of curiosity seeing several backpackers in Session Road every Christmas. Snorkeled in Busuanga Palawan because your friends in adventure clubs rave about the corrals. Hiked the rugged terrain of Sabtang, Batanes enticed by the photo feature in Action Asia. Suspended time in Laoag and freed it in Pagudpud.

And you thought you’ve seen enough of Luzon?

Not until you visit Baler, Aurora, 6 ½ hours via 4WD from Manila or 7 1/2 hours by public.

The very minute you move out of Cabanatuan and Palayan cities, you know you are setting foot into something new and different. Especially when you zigzag through Sierra Madre at an elevation of 600 M ASL.

You know you’ve exited Nueva Ecija and entered the Province of Aurora when the bald mountain scenery turns fully forested and green. (Who cut all the trees of Nueva Ecija? Who fought hard to preserve the forests of Aurora?)

You are midway between Cabanatuan and Baler when you reach the stopover at the Aurora Memorial National Park base. There is a DENR office serving as the gateway to the national park. (The staff says a guide and a permit are required to proceed to the peak. The officer in the office if he is around issues the permit. Otherwise, you’ll have to secure it in Baler.)

You are nearing Baler when the rugged bumpy ride shifts to a smooth and fast glide, elevation drops to 45 M ASL and instead of riding on the mountain ridge, there is a mountain wall facing you.

Unlike in Real, Quezon after traversing Sierra Madre, there is window opening to the Pacific Ocean visible from the highway. In Baler, you arrive at the Central Terminal asking in disbelief “Is this it?” No view, no sea, no open space?

Centro just serves as your gateway to the real wonder beyond the town and replenishment for necessities. Townfolks are friendly and helpful, you’ll feel immediately at home even if you’re a stranger. Everyone is more than willing to give leads-the tricycle driver, tindera, policeman, the grocery owner of Moreno’s grocery, the student you’re sharing the top load with and especially so the village folks. Bia sells for P 20.0 per kilo (8 pieces), meat at P 80.0.

A 5-minute tricycle ride leads you to Sabang, the East edge of the island. Sabang is the site of the 1st Aurora Surfing Cup held last February 1998 sponsored by an international adventure magazine Action Asia. This is the place to surf, stay, dine, dance and get drunk. Waves run up to 6 meters high intermittently making it ideal for the sport.

Move further South and you’re in a lost world of Cemento. You no longer think Luzon when you’re here. Trek for 2 hours in a rugged road with the sight and sound of the Pacific Ocean at your left and a steep 600-meter slope of dense forest at your right. So thick and so full is the forest that in the entire 2-hour trek, there is no way to trek up except through the erosion. To scale to the top you don’t hike, you rock climb.

Every moment of the trek is an ideal stopover. Who wouldn’t stop for the 3 to 6 meter high waves, coves, clean and windy air, the open sea, rock formations and sandy shores and on the other side, the mountain wall, waterfalls, "flowing" mineral water?

Every mountaineer knows there is more to see at the top. The last 45 minutes brought us to the PAGASA radar station. Location at 150 M ASL gave us a vista from an elevated plain-a paradise like cove at the right almost uninhabited. Incessantly, we were refreshed with the flow of wind fresh from the ocean that is free from contaminants and pollutants and showered with pure distilled rainwater. Viewing sunrise from the edge, it was as if we were the first to see light in the entire Philippine Island.

While we were at the remote, isolated island outdoors, indoors, we had access to a laboratory. Mang Amado of the Atmospheric Servicing Administration welcomed us as visitors. With an impending Typhoon Loleng coming, we observed in a manner of hours how to track a storm, read barometric changes, measure rainfall, temperature, wind velocity and trace wind directions. Reporting to the national office for everyone else to know completed the cycle.

We woke up early Sunday morning aware that Loleng was no longer stationary and veering towards the Visayas, a first hand info assuring us we can safely go back home.

Before leaving Baler, we imposed upon ourselves that we must at least surf at Baler Bay in Sabang and eat lunch at Bay Inn. Surfing and trekking in Baler in a day and a half, we asked ourselves, “Were we really in Luzon?”

For sure, it’s a place where we want to come back and stay longer. Catch it before the unspoilt, almost pristine, natural and unpretentious" wonder with minimum of man-made amenities as described by modern chronicler Amadis Ma. Guerrero goes the way of the Infanta and Real Quezon, progressing and commercializing.

Surfing and trekking Baler Aurora with CBR and the Solidtrekkers Mitch Soria, Bernard Cruz, Jay Garino, Glenn Ong, Rose Salundaguit 17-18 October 1998.

-tochs@excite.com 22 Oct 1998
-revisit with Jonnell and Marc April 2007

East South North

For the Holy Week 2007 season, there are three choices for selection with my 2 other intrepid, hopefully generous co-travelers:

1. East. A revisit of Baler, Aurora estimated at 246 km from Manila with a 3-hour travel time to Cabanatuan and another 3-4 hour ride to Baler.

2. South. A revisit of the Marinduque Island with a straight line distance of 156 km from Manila, 3 hours of which is travel time to Dalahican near Lucena.

3. North. Participant in the PALMC Bontoc circuit the starting point is about 279 km from Luneta and another 3 days of non stop trekking.

How we will select is mainly on whim and the influence of other new participants. Even with the tsunami at Salomon islands last 2 April, we have not ruled out Baler. We are still open to ideas and invitations.

Map from mapzone

Remembering the Past

Remembering the past

Prompted by the features of pinoy bloggers, I went to see the awardee of the Unesco 2005 Asia Pacific Cultural Heritage Awards, the FEU campus. FEU was cited by Unesco for the project "... in the context of its immediate neighborhood, the project has had a significant effect on raising historic awareness in the community. The project maintained a commendable balance between preserving original building design and use while accommodating the university's modern needs." Indeed FEU is a breather in the congested Quiapo District of Manila. Its well maintained campus is a stark contrast to its nearby neighbor the former Bilibid Prison.

As I logged in at the visitor’s lounge of the university auditorium, I spotted an exhibit organized in partnership with the Philippine Veterans Bank “The War Of Our Fathers-A Tribute To The Filipino Freedom Fighters.” In black and white photos with full documentation, one was reminded of the destruction of Manila, the atrocities of war and courage and valor of the Filipinos.

Fr. James B. Reuters, S. J. wrote in the welcome billboard "When those of us, who lived through those days, die…the world will forget..." Through pictures, inscriptions and video presentation, one gets to see what was the painful past.

The exhibit was on its last day last 15 March and will move to another venue in the province. War of our Fathers is on a national roadshow courtesy of the bank.

Two historical moments in 2 hours reminded us there was glory then in the 40's called Manila.

You link me up

You link me up





The long wait for the Doroteo Jose-Recto LRT pedestrian walkway has partially ended. This major infrastructure project which will allow the change of train from LRT1 to 2 and vice versa without stepping on the road was opened to the commuting public this 10 March 2007 but only on one side-from Recto to Monumento. This should spare the train commuter from the hazards of crossing Rizal Avenue and Oroqueta. Once completed, it will seamlessly connect NCBA/ St. Bridget (Katipunan) to La Salle/ St. Scho (V. Cruz). Based on the pacing, the Recto to Baclaran linkage may be ready in a month or two. By the way, LRT2 tickets are acceptable at the LRT1.

Two Corrections:
1. It took 5 months to complete the pedestrian crossing to the Dorotheo Jose-Baclaran route not in a month or 2 that I originally projected. As of 15 September 2007, I walked from the LRT2 station at Recto to the LRT1 station at the Dorotheo Jose East side on the way to Baclaran without going down to Rizal Avenue. The elevated walkway was finally operational about a month ago. From the walkway, you need to walk up to about 2 floors before you can reach the other side. Safer than crossing Rizal Avenue. There are escalators and elevators for the inactive ones.
2. You need to purchase separate tickets for LRT1 and LRT2. You can enter using the LRT2 ticket but you can not use the ticket to exit.

East to West via the Pasig River

East to West via the Pasig River-Downstream from Guadalupe to Escolta



Pasig River Ferry is now operational since 10 March 2007. Stations in place are in Escolta, Hulo, Sta Ana, and Guadalupe. First trip is at 5:30 am with fixed schedules about every hour until 9:05 pm. Fare for the longest and the shortest route is the same at P 25.0. The Catamaran can accommodate 152 seated passengers in an enclosed air-conditioned vessel. An officer of the Philippine Coast Guard and a full service technical complement should ensure the security and safety of the vessel. Travel time is approximately 55 minutes.



Travel in a new light from East to West. Pasig River is not that bad especially from Escolta to Nagtahan. The most populated section is between Pandacan to Lambingan in Sta Ana. Like the LRT, there are strict restrictions: luggage is limited, no picture taking at Malacanang, no drunk riders, no bringing of food. For now with only 2 vessels operating, waiting time in between rides is approximately an hour. The Guadalupe station has the advantage of a walking distance access to the LRT Guadalupe station and the bus rides at EDSA. Karitelas can move you to the next jeepney and LRT/MRT stations in Escolta in case you don't like walking.



Beyond the convenience of the new mode of transport made available by the romantic river to the ordinary commuters, Pasig Ferry gives access to the river strip never been seen before. One passes through in a sense, history. In less than 60 minutes, one is transported to the past starting from the upstream, the Manila of the Spaniards, Chinese and Americans and in Malacanang, the seat of power that has seen many presidencies. Towards downstream we see the current in the abandoned and decaying factories, the communities that mushroomed under the steel framework of the bridges of MacArthur, Quezon, Nagtahan, Pandacan and Lambingan and the increasing colony of settlers at the Hulo and river banks.

The landscape may not be stunningly beautiful. But it says that the Filipino, in spite of it all is struggling and is still alive. Welcome aboard to the city of our affection, Manila.



Fotos and details at this site http://www.pinoytravelblog.com/roadtrip/508/pasig-river-ferry-metro-manilametro-manila

See Google's satellite map of Manila http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=14.579000,121.083000&spn=0.104044,0.167645&t=k&hl=en

Down to Earth

Down to Earth with Pastour Emata

Erwin “Pastour” Emata was the second undisputed Filipino to step at the roof of the world on 18 May 2006, Thursday at 5:30 a.m. (7:30 a.m. Philippine time), next to Leo Oracion. His famous words while raising the flag at 29,035 feet ASL were "Ang lamig-lamig dito!"

But what is he really like? I was at close range with Pastour for the first time 8 March 2007 at the send off party of the Kaya ng Pinay: The All-Filipina Team Everest at the Megamall parking lot. After a short warm up introduction, Pastour casually postured like any other moutaineers I climb with: talkative, pilyo, filosopo, funny and down to earth.


While our conversation was drowned out by the blaring vocals of Hanna of the Session Road, Pastour gamely narrated relevant incidences leading to the completion of his mission, to reach the top of Everest and to return back alive.

For a co-mountaineer whose realm of experience is limited to the tropics, one listens with awe as to what the man who made history has to say. Cathy Buelva, friend of Pastour’s fellow Everest climber Larry Honoridez validated if not prompted some replies.

Photo courtesy of Mae Cruz

The happiest moment was not when I reached the summit but when I was safely secured at the base camp. “Dala kasi ng takot noong nakita ko na may namamatay pala talaga rito.” Fear seeped in when he was at the Khumbo Ice Fall because the probability of death was no longer a concept but an actual possibility. 3 of the 5 sherpas in their entourage were buried by a collapsing glacier.

I persevered. Aside from the skills, it was the “lakas na loob” that drove me to the top and the assurance that there was a team supporting me.

Leo trekking to the peak first was a team decision. He was the strongest, I was just the fastest. My follow through and schedule to ascent were a collaborative decision. It called for some sacrifice. “Di pumasok sa loob ko na historical yung moment na yon. Ang iniisip ko makababa sa base camp.”
To successfully reach the top, one must establish a trusting relationship with your Sherpa. It’s a one on one affair with Pemba. “Ang buhay ko nasa Sherpa. Katabi ko siya matulog noon pa man sa training. Sa kanya ko pinagkatiwala ang buhay ko.”

Receiving the accolade after our historic moment is a familiar situation for me. As I have been recognized for winning adventure race, the feeling is the same except that this was on a larger scale. “Pa kaway-kaway din.”

The peak of Everest is granted not to everyone. All the forces must align to allow you to step foot at the peak: God, the weather, the circumstances, one’s skill and capability, the team and the resources. As in any mountain, one should truly be deserving to attain it. To Pastour, his exposure as an adventure race was what built up his endurance, a necessary physical element to scale Everest. “Maraming hirap ang dinaanan namin sa mga Alphine training. Malaking tulong ang ginawa ng pagiging Adventure Racer ko sa pag build up ng aking endurance.”

Now post 18 May 2006, having acclimatized back to the reality of day-to-day living in Davao and preparing for the first Filipina Everest climb, he faces two personal challenges: narrating his experience to non-mountaineers and providing for his family. The difficulty of the climb is hard to relay to the urban professionals who have not gasped for breathe in a mountain or in a race. One must have climbed a cardiac ridge to relate with the difficulty the team went through. “Ang pinakamadaling ikinukwento ko ay kung anong nararamdaman ko, walang technical.”

The greater challenge I face is not the next mountain I’ll climb but how to provide for my growing family. Pastor’s sources of income prior to Everest were as a mountain guide to Apo and as a professional participant to Adventure Racing where his drive to win was the prize money. Today post Everest, his regular income comes from the Philippine Coast Guard where he was appointed as petty officer third class. “Sana man lang sa bawat pag sign ko ng autograph, magbibigay ng piso, uihay na ang pamilya ko.”

Fame has its price. When my eldest son sent me off for the Pinay Kaya Mo Expedition, he said, “‘tay balik ka na sa inyo?” “Nalungkot ako!”

The success story of of the Filipino stepping foot at the roof of the world is an inspiration. While we may not physically conquer the highest point on earth, the strains we face as urban warriors are alike. Like climbing a mountain, the sames values particularly the belief in ourselves and aligments are needed to propel us to survive and to succeed. That is what I found out from Pastour. They are not exclusive to Pastour nor to Leo nor Romy. They are within reach even to us ordinary mortals struggling with our own private Everests’.

(Disclaimer: Di pa po nababasa ni Pastour.)

The Manila that they and we knew

The Manila that they and we knew

When my English teacher writes a story and publishes it in a book, I drop by the bookstore and browse it.

When she writes a foreword to a compilation of essays published in a book, I buy and read it and write about it.



The Manila We Knew is a collection of 14 essays edited by Ms. Erlinda Enriquez Panlileo with a foreword by Ms. Cristina Pantoja-Hidalgo. Book published by Anvil recalls Manila then in the pre and post war narrating how much liveable the city was before than now in the 21st century.

Review in the UST Publication The Varsitarian by Ms. Myla Bantog says on the collection of essays by 12 female writers, “Every essay carries with it a certain air of nostalgia that awakens long-forgotten memories of Manila among older readers and brings a sense of longing to the younger ones, whether it be the old Assumption College on Herran St. demolished 30 years ago, the “kissing lagoon” at the UP, or the sampaloc trees which had vanished on Sampaloc Avenue, now Tomas Morato. But things change, and so does Manila, leaving only remnants of the trees that once lined its streets, and the fireflies that used to be so abundant in its gardens.” http://www.varsitarian.com/details.asp?id=2504

Ms. Hidalgo in her foreword commented that while Manila of today has decayed and deteriorated, the writers have not given up on her. She eloquently writes, "This book is about the old home. These authors have opened the old camphor chest and sifted through the dusted faded treasures lying there. And from the rescued bits and pieces, the precious little olds and ends, they have woven this glowing tapestry of the Manila they know and love."
Reading the book led me to to join the Ivan Man-Dy walking tour to have a first hand experience on the Chinatown through a culinary experience and a better appreciation of the visual Art Deco of Escolta. We truly are a result of several cultural exposures whose identity is still evolving. http://www.oldmanilawalks.com/



The book reading and the walking tour were to me visually summarized while standing at the foot of Jones Bridge at the bank of the Pasig River. Binondo at the North was my Chinese heritage that seeped in 400 years ago, the Central Post Office across Pasig River at the South and the Escolta at the immediate North were the American imprint preserved in an Art Deco form. Farther West was the Walled City of Intramuros, a legacy of the Spanish colonization in the 15th century. The banks at the West Side were the shapes and forms of the 20th century. At the far East was the post modern look of the new FEATI annex immortalized by the famous positive line "Look up young man, look up."



We certainly hope that the future for the urban dwellers is as bright as the vision the FEATI slogan plugs it.

Ms. Hidalgo ends her foreword with a line, The Manila We Knew ". . . is a testament to the city of their affection." If I may add, our affection too.

4 March 2007

Private Kitchen

Private Kitchen

In a chance encounter in a supermarket in Quezon Avenue, I spotted Rene and Joan, semi-retired climbers who caught the climbing fever not post graduation but post employment. I remembered this couple in our Tirad Pass climb in 2001 with the AOC (Ateneo Outdoors Club), a climb with the history professor and adviser of the high school club Jay Hernando who combined historical perspective and trekking . (Tirad Pass was where Gregorio Del Pilar was finally captured by the Americans in 2 December 1899.)

Rene and Joan were known to take their climb slowly relishing every sight and step. Reaching the campsite was rewarded with a full meal complete with wine and brewed coffee. The couple equally shared the load of bringing the kitchen and their shelter.

Not having climbed for months, they mentioned they continued their other passion-cooking. As a result of the encounter, I was extended an invitation to sneak in their kitchen with my guests. I volunteered for the drinks, dessert and coffee with them taking care of the main meals.

I asked a colleague, Tec Manalac who joined me in Sagada in 1998 when 4 wheel drive was still a luxury. Tec, an apprentice at the Manila Peninsula confirmed she was interested and was bringing something special. I asked Bob Tongco who was with us in Tirad Pass if he can squeeze it in in between his internship. He found the time. Jonnell did not pose any objection.

That introduced me to the concept of a Private Kitchen. Meals are designed and prepared right in the home kitchen by chefs served to your guests in a fine setting in their company. Served that evening were: Squash Soup, Baked Chicken, Bell Pepper Viand, Mountain Rice and Strawberry dipped in Chocolate prepared by Rene, Lamp Chops marinated by Tec, Chocolate Sans Rival and Chocolate Ganache baked by Tec and South African Wines and Segafredo Coffee contributed by me.

While this happened in April 2001, Jonnell todate could not forget the delight of eating Tec’s ganache cake. I still could recall the satisfaction of a gastronomical meal. What they say about good food was thus validated correct that "Gastronomy hurdles the language barrier, makes friends among civilized people, and warms the heart."

December 2006 while taking the elevated walkway in Glorietta, I had another chance encounter with Rene and Joan. They have not climbed in months and still have the passion for cooking. I asked casually, “will there still be another private kitchen?” "Anytime," they gladly replied. Now I made that partly public.

7 February 2007

There is Still Magic in Sagada
There is still magic in Sagada despite the thousand lowlanders who escaped from Baguio and the city this Christmas 1997. Even if you are denied several times in various instances.

No Ride. We missed the Lizardo Bus at the Dangwa station in Baguio for the direct trip to the town. As early as 6 in the morning of Sunday 28 December, all the 6 buses were filled up and dispatched early.

No lodging. All inns were full. Some patient travelers had to contend with the hospital bed at the community hospital.

No Food. And rejected several times the Log Cabin, St. Joseph, Masfierre Inn and Shamrock for food and drinks.

Still there was magic in Sagada. The Celestine Prophecy attributed it to the pure energy of the mountain. Everything just flowed.

I planned this trip in December and finalized the details only in Baguio via pager with my friends in Manila the day before. All of us met at Chowking in Session Road Sunday. I came from Baguio, some straight from the bus from Manila and one from the beach of San Fernando La Union. Mitch Soria, a PAL MC colleague, Arney Nocum, a freelance photographer and a broadcaster, Tec Mañalac, a youth leader working at the Office of the Manila Mayor and I were directed to a bus headed for Bontoc. We got off at junction and hitched a ride in an open van. We were treated to an open-air view of the Sagada Mountain together with about twenty other passengers.

Upon arrival at the cooperative store, we saw Dax Cobarrubias and Beatrice, our friends from PSI (People Synergistically Involved) who invited us to the St.Mary's orphanage (now rented by a Canadian Funded NGO IA for Transformation). That free accommodation freed a lot of time for all for us. It was a big relief to first timers Arney and Tec who had no idea what was in store for them.

How can Sagada not enchant anyone? We were billeted in an old, big schoolhouse made of wood, now a rare commodity in this town. We experienced a 12° C on our first morning, the coldest ever for the year 1998 I was told. The pine trees bursting with pine cones all over surrounding the valley contributed to the cold, clean air that lingered with us all throughout our 3-day stay. Baguio may have been like this over 50 years ago with hardly any vehicle to pollute the air. To warm us up on our first day, Beatrice and Dax set up a bonfire.

Sagada to me is one modestly sized theme park with the exception that everything is its natural state. The country music of John Denver and Kenny Rogers played incessantly at the buses complemented the clean country atmosphere. To move from one wonder to the next, one walks for as short as 5 minutes from the Plaza (Echo Valley) to a long half a day (Sumaging Cave or the big waterfall).

We viewed the morning sunrise amidst streaks of light and mist at the Keltepan tower at the East Side of Sagada at 6 in the morning (elevation about 2,200 meters ASL). Saw the same sun go down from the top of Lake Danum Mountain at the west side. Instead of streak of lights, the sun displayed various shades and layers of orange and blue set in pure unadulterated air. We stayed until the threatening clouds claimed the view and the temperature dropped.

The entire town celebrated the Cañao wedding which kept everyone, residents and a close to thousand guests alive the whole night of Monday even with the 9 PM curfew imposed. This gave drinkers like Mitch and I a chance to enjoy beer at the Shamrock.

We walked North, East, South, West and trekked from 1,200 meters to 2,200 meters ASL. Dived at the waterfalls, entered the cave, patronized handicrafts, ate a lot of red rice, drank a lot of Sagada tea, met old friends like Ronald and Mavic Arcilla, offered new friendships, avoided the Cañao mating dance. We expelled the urban air of Baguio and Manila and breathed in fresh ones from the mountains.

Sagada this year was different. Different from last summer and the 1996 holidays when there was just a handful of guests. What with all these lowlanders, I thought the place has lost its charm. But in the company of Mitch, Arney and Tec and the energy all around us, nature still worked on us. It energized us to do about almost everything that can be done. It erased all the obstacles that got into our way. Means showed up when they was no ride to the town, no inns at the Plaza, no food, no way to the sunrise and no way to the sunset and no ride way back to Baguio and Manila.

We sneaked out of Sagada in a passenger jeep at 5:30 am on the 30th Tuesday to Bontoc to take the 7 am bus ride to Baguio via Dangwa Transit. At past noon, we were perhaps the first batch of backpackers to be back in Baguio from the enchanted place.

Then with the fun group of Jerry Balignasa and Russel Aguinaldo, we met up with the PAL MC Group headed by Mayan, Wing, Art, Minerva, Ivy, Rhoda, Darwin, Ruel, Juno and his wife. We got a preview of the adventures of federation climbers as Jun Cipriano, Jun Martin, Gerry Girl N., Butch Ballesteros, Resil, Rudgir, Loyd, Ann, Joy and Dulce that trekked up to Pulag that same weekend led by EL RomyValdes. We drank and narrated with gusto our stories until the bus schedule late that night and early morning said it's time to go.

What's with this mountain range that everyone has an infinity of experiences and stories to tell? Traveling back to Manila on the 31st, I kept on hearing in my mind the song of the late John Denver, very popular singer in the Helsima Highway asking to be "brought home to country road where he belongs." With all these enchantment, it may not be that remote that we backpackers settle in the rocky mountain high where we too perhaps belong sometime in the near future. If Sagada’s enchantment is still still after the turn of the century.

Happy New Year!
17 Jan 1998

Price of Cell

The landscape has changed. That’s your impulsive outburst when you return back to the same mountain you climbed in years. No, you are not referring to the new trails, the uprooted age old century trees nor the redirected riverbed. You are referring to the cellsites which have sprouted in good vantage points near the jump-off points. Not just one site but several clustering in an area.

While they get in the way when framing photographs, they nevertheless provide convenient benefits that have changed the way we now climb.

Where there is a signal, you can plot whereabouts of the group. When there is an awesome view, you photograph it. When there is an unusual motion, you videocam the scene.

Most important is when you are in distress, you can text or call SOS. When you want to spite those who could not join the climb, you MMS them, real time.

But with the gadget comes an extra load and accountability. You make sure it is fastened well or you’ll lose it. During reststops you secure it or it will get snatched. When it rains, you waterproof it or it will malfunction.

Climbing was once regarded as the Freedom of the Hills. When set to explore the outdoors, you escape from the day-to-day mechanical urban routine. As you were negotiating a difficult cliff, your phone rings putting you in a dilemma to answer or to secure your step. You decided to answer. It turned out to be a call center agent proposing a waived enrollment fee for a credit card.

Advances have their trade-offs. Is there still freedom at the hills?

7 Feb 07

Facing the Wind-chill Factor

Nelson, a fellow climber in the early 90’s sent me a test message to attend a baptism of Chris and Angel’s son who are in Manila from U.K. this 28 January. For me, the invitation wasn’t for a grand feast. It was to organize a climb this 3rd February for a motley group of an unconfirmed number who have not climbed in years. Other than finding out their preferences and those who were definitely not climbing, nothing was arranged.

Another follow up meet was set up 30 January with Jonnell T. and Marc C. who have shown interest to join as part of the once a quarter climb program in 2007. After a “pre-pre”-climb meeting at Bellini’s over pizza and wine, we proceeded to Ventura in Manila to concretize the plan.

“Mountain with a spectacular view within easy reach from Metro Manila and moderately easy for the unconditioned” were the specs given. Choices were narrowed down to Talim in Laguna de Bay 438 meters ASL, Tarak in Mariveles 1,288 M ASL, Talipanan in Galera 1,296 M ASL and as a contingency, Manalmon in San Miguel 196 M ASL.


While planning for the Logistics requirements for at least 7 participants a day before the climb, Chris sent a text message from his conditioning day climb in Maculot saying “Wouldn’t it be great to cap the climb at the beach?” That sealed the climb to Talipanan.

Talipanan is reached via the Batangas Port gateway which a 75 kilometer landtrip from Manila (about 2 hours), a 1 1/2 boat ride to the Mindoro Island (via Muelle, Balatero or directly to White Beach) and a 3 hour trek from the Mangyan Village in Barangay Aninuan to the mountain’s shoulder.

Actual climb can be phased in 3: the 1st hour of a steep ascent up the ridge, 2nd hour at the ridge at 353 M ASL slowing elevating to the cliff like slopes, and the final 3rd hour with 3 challenging long inclined trails up to our campsite at 775 M ASL. Level of difficulty was made tougher by the hot afternoon sun and the strong continuous wind blowing westward towards sunset.


Fortunately the group held on until the end. Victor “Sensei” an inactive Aikido instructor, a private, unlicensed chef has not climbed since the 2001 Pulag. He carried the group’s equipment and half of the kitchen. Marc, the novice with a complete set of hardly used hardware and an unlimited supply of chocolate kept pace through his youth and zeal. Luis put one over us with his determination and light weight pack consisting mostly of personal effects. Those trekking with full gears of course could not keep up with him. Chris who does multi day climbs in Scotland whose most recent conditioning climb was the day climb to Maculot was expected to adjust to the group’s speed, even with his heavy self contained pack and his loaded digital SLR camera and accessories.

Equipment too held on. Temperature dropped to 16° C excluding the wind chill factor of the strong winds which enveloped the group starting at the 2nd phase up to the campsite. The full moon exactly on that night could only intermittently illuminate us because clouds filtered its way. Only a halo at the center was free from obstruction that allowed us to identify groups of stars in the constellation.

Our chef assisted by Marc and Luis still managed to cook the perfect rice and to prepare several main meals varying from mushroom, fish, pork added with spices, herbs, olive oil and other secret condiments. The Optimus, MSR and Gigapower by Snowpeak kept on firing without windscreens. Defying the wind, they did not fail. While the stoves were overworked, they heated up the cooksets just fine for Sensei to prepare meals which touched on the tongue’s palate not usually tapped. Chocolates provided by Marc capped the meal. The more daring ones sipped Jacob’s Creek white wine and VSOP brand to warm the cooling bodies before calling it a day.


The wind even got more ferocious as the night got deeper threatening to rip off the tents. Gladly, the tents too withstood the pressures. The wind was blowing off everything that came its way. Getting up the morning after was as difficult as the climb itself. But that too did not stop our invited chef to prepare a staple breakfast-genuine Vienna Sausage, Corned Beef with onions, olive oil and condiments and omelet and hot Swiss Choco. Meal was more than enough to fuel our energy needed for the descent.

Our climb was rewarded with short socials among fellow climbers we met at the lone tree along the trail. The quality of stories exchanged supplemented the brief unstructured socials we held at the campsite abruptly cut short by the deafening winds. 

Our encounter with the AMCI group of outdoor lover blogger Dave of http://ialman.livejournal.com/ can be technically qualified as a climber’s eyeball. We found out too that some boat trips were delayed which prevented the group to trek that Saturday afternoon. Then we realized that we were lucky that with all the set backs in this climb, we completed it. Reaching the ground zero at the white beach, Chris treated us to a crunchy, filling Italian Pizza at Pasta Margarita, food which is uncommon after a climb.

The Wind-chill factor for me was not the rough movement of air. It stood for the challenges of the climb. In the company of co-heroic and responsible leaders Victor, Luis, Marc and Chris including Nelson and Jonnell interfering via MMS and text messages, it was an opportunity to test if everyone has leadership potential. Key of which is simply the unlocking of the potential which broke loose in Talipanan. Several critical decision points were set up for us to get our common vision: to climb, camp and get back. Important questions were asked which when acted upon differently would change the course of our expedition. They were simple: How many are climbing? Who has the equipment? What about our food? What will we ride? Where do we meet? Where do we park? What boat ride will we take? Do we land in Sabang, Muelle or White Beach? Where do we eat lunch? Do we take a tricycle or the jeep to the jump-off point? Where is the jump-off point? Where do we camp? 

Descending at the shoreline we asked the most important question, where do we reward our accomplishment: at Lucas at the extreme West? or Pasta Margarita at the Center. Truly leaders showed up in small and major acts in the 5 of us: responding to text message, meeting schedule, volunteering to pay, fastening canvas cover, selecting the boat ride, selecting the meal menu, paying for the bill, buying bananas, sharing the load, following instruction, keeping pace, sharing stories, looking for the best campsite, sharing water, sharing trail foods, taking pictures, cooking, picking the trash, setting up the tent, pegging the guy lines, cleaning the cook sets and in other acts.

Chris mentioned, after a climb especially the ones which are hard on us, we feel invigorated afterwards. I could not adequately explain. But Edwin Berbaum, author of the Sacred Mountains of the World writes in his book abut finding our center “This sense of vastness allows us to find the center of everywhere, not just on the summit of a mountain. If we remain open to the world around us, aware of its boundless, mysterious nature, then no matter how far we travel, we never come to the edge. The horizon moves away from us so that we always walk in the middle of the circle. The power of the center stays with us, and the fear we have of losing it vanishes. No longer bound to a particular place or occupation, we feel free to go anywhere and do anything, knowing that wherever we go, whatever we do, we will always be in touch with the reality of the world and ourselves.”
Returning back home in Manila at 7:30 PM with the experience, it made us ask, “Have we done all that in 37 hours for a mere P 700?” I recalled the campsite sometime past midnight when the full moon was right below us putting us at the center. Berbaun explained it, we 5 lived it, at least for that weekend.

5 February 2007

Fotos by Chris Patten

Tree, Sky, Rainbow and Moon Gazing Photos by Luis B.

The lonerider

The lonerider documents Elvis goes to Everest, the 17th concert of Romeo Lee held last 5 December 2006. http://thelonerider.com/2006/dec/elvis/elvis.shtml

Ian in Half-Life writes commentaries about his climbs finding meaning in them. http://flickofdaswitch.blogspot.com

Alman Dave details what happens in their climbs in Random Ruminations. http://ialman.livejournal.com