Cuenca Paho. Paminta. Barako

 A Story from Batangas Called "The Gaze from Cuenca"

Our trip to the center of Batangas doesn't start at a viewpoint, but in the busy, hot Cuenca public market. This is where the dark-roasted local kapeng barako is done, giving the air a strong, earthy smell. The rough texture of the dark barako coffee beans and dried local peppers spilling out of weaving bags into the low morning light is captured in the first picture. This is the taste of the area: strong and unbending.

As you go deeper into the market, the strong smell of coffee gives way to a sweet, fresh scent. We find a seller selling small, bright green mango paho (paho (𝘔𝘢𝘯𝘨𝘪𝘧𝘦𝘳𝘢 𝘮𝘰𝘯𝘢𝘯𝘥𝘳𝘢), an endemic species popularly eaten as buro or ensalada). They're about the size of a big pea, firm, and very sour. These are "seasonal" available only from December to April that are great for ensalada.

Sold alongside the barako beans, are typically the Siling Labuyo (bird's eye chili). These tiny peppers are famous for their intense, immediate heat. In Batangas culture, they are the essential partner to patis (fish sauce) and calamansi, creating the perfect dipping sauce to cut through the richness of local dishes like Lomi or Bulalo.

Finally, we leave the market and climb up to a quiet patio in the country with a view of the scenery. There is no longer any heat in the market; there is now a light breeze.

Mt. Maculot defines Cuenca: Mt. Maculot's grand, rough edges dominate the distance. In the center, on a rough-hewn wooden fence, is a simple enamel mug holding dark Barako coffee made from the same beans that were seen earlier. The green fields and soft morning light below connect the food at the market to this famous view of Batangas.

For several years, Maculot has remained inaccessible for trekking, consequently removing a key avenue for mountaineering-related expenditure from the market.

This week is the last week of normal life in Cuenca before the "Mahal na Araw" (Holy Days), when the mountain turns into a church, the people who go to the market turn into travellers, and strong Barako coffee becomes a way for religious people to get together.

It's rare to find a place where raw volcanic energy meets the gentle rhythm of everyday market life. For Metro Manila explorers, Cuenca is much more than a travel spot; it's an experience that refreshes your senses. Batangas' spirit isn't just in its towering peaks—it's also alive in the steam rising from a plain enamel mug and the lasting friendliness of its people.