Friday, June 29, 2007

One of The Greatest Archaeological Finds

Allow me to share the photos of Banny and Dom on our visit to another Unesco World Heritage site, the temples of Siem Reap, said to be one of the greatest archaeological finds.

The lost temples of Siem Reap found by a French biologist were proof that civilization may have started in Cambodia which had an influence in India and Nepal.

Join us in another spiritual journey.
Day starts with sunrise at Ankor Wat, the largest temple in the Cambodia
It ends with a temple on top of a hill overlooking Siem Reap
Even the monks are tourists in their own temples

Downtown where time stood still

Leaning on artifacts

-Chito posting from 0 meters ASL (above sea level) in Boracay, Aklan Philippines

Tuesday, June 19, 2007

Namaste. At the center of the world


Namaste. Namasté is a popular greeting at the trail leading to the Everest Base Camp which is a Sanskrit word that means, “The Light of God in Me recognizes and honors The Light of God in You and in that recognition is our Oneness.

Welcome to our adventure, our adventure to the ultimate base camp-the base camp of the roof of the world, Everest Base Camp 5,567 meters above sea level. It is the world’s most popular trekking destination of Europeans, Americans, Japanese, Koreans, Singaporeans, Malaysians, Chinese and other citizens of the world.

In April 2007, there were 3,495 trekkers registered trekkers to the camp. April is considered the peak of the spring climbing season. In October last year, the peak of the winter climbing season there were 6,595 registered trekkers at the Sagarmatha National Park.

The base camp is popular because it is the gateway to the peak of Tibetan’s Chomolungma, known as Sagarmatha to the Nepalis and to the world, Mt. Everest. Sagarmatha to the Tibetans is the "Forehead of the Sky.” Chomolangma or Qomolangma to the Nepali’s is the "Mother of the Universe."



While the Everest Base Camp is the world’s trekking capital, the Filipinos dread it. It is not yet their popular trekking destination. A Filipino did not reach Everests’ summit until 54 years after the successful expedition of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on May 29, 1953 at 11:30 AM Nepal time. Leo Oracion, the 1st Filipino to peak Mt. Everest reached the summit on 17 May 2006 3:30 PM followed by Pastour Emata on 18 May at 5:20 AM. Both were members of the First Philippine Mt. Everest Expedition. Romy Garduce, the 3rd Filipino who mounted a solo expedition in 2006 made it to the summit 19 May at 11:00 AM.

Why is Nepal the world’s trekking capital? It is known for the Himalayas mountain system. The Himalayas mountain system is the planet's highest and home to the world's highest peaks. It has over a hundred mountains that exceed the eight thousand altitude, including Mount Everest. The Himalayas stretches across six nations: Bhutan, China, India, Nepal, Pakistan and Afghanistan. It is the source of three of the world's major river systems, the Indus Basin, the Ganga-Brahmaputra Basin and the Yangtze Basin.

Nepal is the entry point to the summit of the world’s highest mountain from the south side. With over a hundred mountains exceeding 7,500 meters ASL, the views are spectacular punctuated with a rich cultural heritage of the Nepalis and Tibetans. Trails developed by the British are well established with lodge accommodations and food facilities in place.

There is an Everest fear factor created by media and accounts of those who explored the mountain system. It is dangerous as people die. Most recent and celebrated were the Scott Fisher and the Rob Hall expeditions in 1996 where 8 died. The most common ailment is Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), a condition with no known antidote where one can die.

Those in the tropics like the Philippines are not geared for alpine climbing and have to acclimatize to higher elevation. Our body system has experienced for the first time gasping for a share of oxygen. The Philippines highest elevation in Luzon is in Pulag at 2,992 M ASL. South East Asia’s highest point is Kota Kinabalu at 4,095 M ASL. Lukla airport, entry to the Himalayas from Katmandu is already at 2,850 M ASL.

By Philippine standard, travel to Everest is expensive compared to the cost to climb locally and to nearby Kinabalu. A trek exceeding a 5 day climb is considered long. Timetable to complete the Everest base camp is minimum 16 days. From Manila, the budget for a group expedition is over US $ 2,000.

After the First Philippine Mt. Everest Expedition (FPMEE) successfully placed the 1st Filipino at the summit of Everest in 2006, a Manila based club Philippine Airlines Mountaineering Club (PALMC) planned a club expedition in 2007. As far as we know, it was the First Philippine-based club to do so. This expedition was in support of the Kaya ng Pinay Tibet to Nepal Everest traverse.


The trek to the base camp was not a walk in the park. It was not easy. There are hassles of travel transfers of the 3 hour travel from Manila to Bangkok, another 3 hours from Bangkok to Katmandu and the short trip from Katmandu to Lukla. Imagine the anxiety to be in places one has never seen before. Not one from the group has been to Nepal. There is also the anxiety not knowing too well the other members of the team. Thinning air at the higher elevation, a fact that we have to confront with slowed us down.


Finally on 8 May 2007, we embarked on the expedition. The actual expedition covered about 60 kilometers of established trails in a changing landscape and elevation. Total distance made from start to finish was 120 kilometers. A 2,717-meter ascent was made from Lukla, site of the airport at 2,850 M ASL up to EBC at 5,567. Each day, there were trails going up and going down. Each hanging bridge crossing meant a sharp descent and a difficult ascent. Degree of difficulty varied each day from moderate to difficult to as short as 3 slow hours to 8 long hours a day for 15 days. It took 15 days to reach the base camp and 6 days to descend. The acclimatization added trekking days going up to the base camp. The shorter trekking hours were made at a higher elevation while the longer trekking hours were down at the 1st 3 days of the trek. Temperature was average was at 10°C, 3 °C in the mornings. At the base camp it was negative 10.


There were rewards to this not too easy climb. There were surprises on every twists and turns like Mt. Everest peak showing, glacier laced peaks of the other mountains or deep ravine with green gushing flowing river. We were thrilled with the sightings of hanging long suspended bridges and nervous when we crossed them. Going up again was a curse to us.

Every now and then, we would meet young Monks along the way. One the way down, we were blessed by a Lama who dismounted from his donkey to give us a special dispensation. Each trekker from all nationalities we meet at the opposite side would unconditionally give us Namaste greetings. We would answer back with our hands held together. Sherpas carrying over 10 cases of Coke, San Miguel Beer surprised us. What shocked us were sherpas bringing up generators at their back and metal parts from a helicopter going down.

The walking route was not just established trails, flora and fauna. We were exposed to the rich Nepali culture in the form of religious icons as thanka, chorten, prayer flags, prayer wheels, prayer stones, bells, money stones and temples located with the most spectacular views. Combine the experience of climbing the sacred mountain of the world, its religious icons and the prayers made during a climb gave us a spiritual uplift. Sounds of bells ringing when yaks pass the trail were a welcome respite from the non-stop gushing sound of the river.

As Everest is a high profile mountain, news made were media stories creating renowned personalities and memorable events. We had live face-to-face encounters with documentary and book personalities and locations from Jambling Norgay, son of Tenzing to Apa Sherpa, the world’s fastest Sherpa and the most recent, the blind trekker. We paid tribute to the memory of Scott Fisher, Rob Hall at the Thukla memorial tomb

The trek was lightened up with a fun-filled company of fellow Pinoys like John F., Ralph P. Larry H., Fred J., Leo O., Orvin D. and even Jodell C. There is comfort to be in foreign land bonding with fellow Pinoys at high altitude. Even in secure company, we could not help but also meet new friends from Singapore, Israel, Malaysia, India, France, Germany, China, UK and of course USA.

Most significant to us was giving a warm welcome to the world setters Pinay summiteers descending from Tibet to the Nepal Everest base camp on 18 May. Noelle, Carina and Janet were the 1st Asean women to summit and the 1st women in the world to traverse from Tibet to Nepal.

Fullfilling for us were opening the gateway of the Everest Base Camp to fellow Pinoy club members. Proud we were as Pinoys sharing the trail, toilet, dining halls and campsite with world’s trekkers mostly from the West and the 1st world Asian countries. For the 2nd time, straight in a row, we placed the unfamiliar Philippine flag at the base camp making it now a familiar figure to returning Sherpas to the base camp.

What was significant with this journey? For us successful base camp trekkers, we were a step closer to be at the center of it all, at the world’s highest point. We had a foot in to the roof of the world.

At Everest, we felt ourselves at the center of the world, not just Asia, not just the Philippines but the WORLD. As we went back to a lower elevation, we wished that that memory remained with us to prepare us for the next. That memory is what we wanted to share with you, in stories and in images.

Humbled,

-Banny Hermanos, Dom Goduco, Cesar Banares, Rico Cabusao, Orvin Diaz, Goncalo de Almeida, Chito Razon
-John Fortes, Larry Honoridez, Leo Oracion, Fred Jamili, Ralph Pilapil, Peewee Wenceslao, Jodell Coates
-Art, Pastour, Ted, Sasha,Vince, Abner, Wilbert and our other friends
Maraming Salamat Po!

For articles, visit http://tochs.blogspot.com/
Thanks to Larry, Cesar, Rico, Dom for the pictures most especially to Banny.

(Expanded version of a Powerpoint presentation presented at a welcome party by PALMC to returning Everest Team Members 16 May at the PAL Training Center Padre Faura courtesy of Mr. John Fortes.)

Sunday, June 17, 2007

Dom's Leica M8 camera using a 24mm Elmarit lens

Dom G. shared with us some photos taken with a Leica M8 camera using a 24mm Elmarit lens. 

Selected were some candid people and landscape shots which showed clarity of image and a clean depth of view.

Photos have been resized from its original high resolution raw format.


Larry reviewing the past, Orvin looking to the future

Rare moments when what is in the photographer's hand is a spoon and not the shutter

Dom in a reststop
Our source of water during the day, hot black tea at Phakding
Black tea at Lukla
With the most photographed monk at Tengboche

A view to a kill
Two Pinoys in a Seam Reap temple. a US $ 400 side trip from Bangkok
At the Dingboche Inn

Base camp proof of arrival
Banny at the New Bangkok airport

Is this trip worth it?

Waiting for a delayed flight

TNF 4 Season Tent at Minus 10 C
A view to live for

Wednesday, June 13, 2007

Pinay Everest Episode of The Correspondents


ABS-CBN aired the Abner Mercado and Wilbert De La Cruz produced Pinay Everest episode of The Correspondents 13 June after midnight. It plugged on its web site the story on the 3 Filipina summiteers, "Another feat has been etched in Filipino history, as Noelle Wenceslao, Karina Dayondon and Janet Belarmino reached the peak of Mt. Everest last May 17 of this year!

Noelle Wenceslao reached the summit first, making her not only the first Filipina to reach the top of the treacherous Mt. Everest, but also the first ASEAN female to do so!

Karina Dayondon followed Wenceslao shortly after, while Janet Belarmino came next!"

Their story provided background information on the trip to Tibet and incidences of Acute Mountain Sickness. Perpectives on the 3 Pinay were highlighted, Janet and her motherhood, Noelle and her relationship with her father and deceased mother and Karina's inclusion in the expedition.

Leo Oracion of PCG and PALMC gave authoritative annotations on the trails the climbers have to go through.

However, to the disappointment of the cheering Filipino trekkers at the Everest Base Camp which was one of the unique moments when the 3 summiteers arrived, their presence was not appropriately mentioned at all.

The episode remains though to be an interesting view. Catch its replay on Studio 23.

-Chito posting from Central Luzon

Tuesday, June 12, 2007

The Everest Base Camp Trek at a Glance


(Click on map for a bigger image.)

The Everest Base Camp Trek at a Glance

-About 6o kilometers one way
-Elevation from 2,850 at Lukla to 5,357 to base camp
-Acclimatization at Namche to Khumjung for 2 days
-Acclimatization at Lobuje for another 2 days
-Stay at Inns everday, same flavor of meals each meal time
-Alpine landscape starting at Tengboche
-4 hanging bridge crossings to Namche, 3 more hanging bridges to Thukla. 7 bridges mean 7 abrupt ascents and descents

Saturday, June 09, 2007

Nepal Photo Captions I

Documentations

Frontpage at the national Nepal paper in a relatively free press.

Map showing route. We came from South heading North to the base camp walking 60 kilometers one way for 9 straight days. This did not take in account the changes in elevation.

First summit now on its 54th anniversary. A Filipino finally stepped foot on the summit of the world's highest point on the 53th year Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached it.
Info on Sagarmatha National Park environment related projects printed on a giant poster
Solukhumbu map as a road signage

News article on the successful expedition
Welcome streamer prepared by the Filipino community in Katmandu. Roughly there are 200-250 Filipino families in the city.

Our footprint at Rum Doodle, a popular restaurant at Thamel, Katmandu. Budget at least 250 Rupees (about 220 pesos) for a meal
After Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, who's next? To organize an expedition to the summit, cost can range from as low as US$ 25,000 for shared group resources to US$ 65,000 for a dedicated team. To trek to the base camp, budget at least US $ 2,300.

Thangkas

Its popular form is in scroll so travelling monks can
conveniently bring it with them.
Nepali thangkas or tangkas are devotional images that act as the centerpiece during a ritual or ceremony and are often used as mediums through which one can offer prayers or make requests. They are religious arts used as a meditation tool to help bring one further down the path to enlightenment. -From Wikipedia



Painted Thangkas are done on cotton canvas or silk with 
water soluble pigments. Canvas is tempered with a herb and
 glue solution


Banny in the company of mischievous young Monks

Orvin doing an Om Mani Padme Hum. Tibetan Buddhists believe that saying the mantra (prayer), Om Mani Padme Hum, out loud or silently to oneself, invokes the powerful benevolent attention and blessings of Chenrezig, the embodiment of compassion. Viewing the written form of the mantra is said to have the same effect -- it is often carved into stones.


Prayers directed to the heaven get immediate results. ORANGE is the colour of harmony, self-worth and Renunciation/Divinity (the robes of Buddhist monks) representing dedication and devotion to a higher ideal. As we look beyond the material level, we start questioning and aspiring to higher levels than the material & physical plains and this calls us to trust, accept and bond. ORANGE too helps the blow of oxygen to the brain. ORANGE is the colour of mindfulness, determination, patience and perseverance, and the use of this colour can bring about and encourage deep insights. Orange increases oxygen flow through the blood and brain which helps with clarity on a mental level.

Thursday, June 07, 2007

Nepal Photo Captions II


Detailed Thanka inside a chorten

Watching Sherpas negotiate the steep ascent from above
Sleepy Monk inside a forbidden temple at Tengboche durng their morning prayer session

Paragliding Brits at Periche breaking new gliding record

Inn and mountain view at Lobuche, critical point for acclimatization
Capturing our slow motion movement at the 2nd half of the expedition
Early morning photo shoot at Thukla. A must view photo at high resolution.
Monk at Tengboche granting our request for a photo session late afternoon

Preview of Banny Hermano's Works
(Captionized per the artist's request 8 June)
Write to tapuey@yahoo.com.ph for the full presentation
The artists' self portrait with friends