John Fortes' Account. Larry's Tips

An Account of John Fortes Trip from Katmandu to Lukla and trek to Namche Bazaar
28 April 2007 sent via Email

People,

We arrived Lukla yesterday morning through a bumpy ride across mountain ranges whose beauty are really spectacular. We landed in a short landing strip of Lukla. Pilots are OK. I suggest you take Bonamins before taking the flight. We got delayed trekking to Phakding as we waited for the 2nd flt from Kathmandu as most of our supplies are there. Our personal baggages were with us though.

We got to Phakding and went straight to our lodge. clean and comfortable. nice food too. Thick blankets are provided.

830am the following day we started our trek to Namche Bazaar. The trail is a rolling hills. We crossed hanging bridges 4 times and had lunch along the way. We girded the mountain sides by the rushing river. After lunch, the trek started to climb. Some 30 some 45 degrees. The difficult parts are the stone steps due to uneven distance and height.

We reached Namche after 8 hours. Our doctor, Jodell got AMS at this early stage which slowed us down considerably. Locals do it in 4-5 hours.

We will stay extra night here at Namche due to Doc's condition. So far accommodations are good. Food is good. Later you will be able to adjust as to what food to eat. You can order anything on the menu.

It's good we have an agency taking care of us. We have one guide and 3 porters. Arrival at Kathmandu is a nightmare if you don't have an agency to assist you when you go out of the airport.

It's getting really cold us we go up and expensive too.

That's all for now.

John

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Helpful Tips from Larry on Namche Travels

There is no restriction in bringing in videocam and camera in Katmandu and Namche.
A duffel bag is better than a backpack if you are travelling with several transpo transfers. It’s easier to unload your stuff upon your arrival at the lodging house.
Allowed baggage load at Lukla flight is 15 kilos only. You have to pay the excess load at 61 rupees per kilo.
There is no problem with airport porters. They can carry 2 bags weighing about 60 kilos or more.
Once you start trekking all your expenses will be Water (Lukla 80 rupees/liter, Nache 50r/liter, more expensive beyond namche) Hot shower (200 rupees) and some extra food. The rest is shouldered by the Agency.
Computer (Internet 600 rupees/hr) is available at Namche and Tengboche only. Battery charging is (100 rupees/ hr). Cellfon signal is at Kathmandu only. Bring at least 2 bottles of Coke (500ml) each from Kathmandu. Coke is too expensive in Namche to wash away your thirst!

Happy meet up with Larry

Based on Nepalese Rupee currency conversions, estimated costs in Pesos are:

1 Rupee is at P .73 pesos and US$ 0.02 cents
Water at 80 Rupee per Liter is at P 58.40 or US $ 1.79
Shower at 200 Rupee is at P 146 Pesos or US $ 4.47
Internet per Hour at 600 Rupee is at P 438.0 or US $ 13.40

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Notes from John posted 27 April 4:32 PM

The trip itself is quite an experience.
Our flight to BKK on PR730 was on sked. We were asked to try the restaurant at the airport called Magic. Yes everything there was spicy but cheap. Monet Trespeses-PAL Country Mgr gave us very sweet lanzones. Yes better than our own.

At the waiting lounge for the flight to Kathmandu, we met 2 Japanese and 2 Norwegians-all going to Katmandu. The Norwegians were at a loss as what to expect at KTM. We told them our agent Henry can help them. So upon arrival we introduced them to Henry and they were taken care of.

There is only one counter for no visa persons. You should have a ready passport photo as this is required. Or else this might delay you as you will be asked to have your photo taken at the airport.

Outside the terminal, (just like ours) taxi drivers ask for contract. Normally it will cost you 200 rupees to your hotel. The problem is with the porters. So if you have an agent taking care of you, you don't have to worry a thing. Just take out your baggage and give it to your agency who will be there waiting for you. In this case Henry. The reason-Henry is married to a Filipina so it's a plus factor.

Immediately we were whisked to our hotel, checked in and went to sleep. Almost midnight.

More to come.

Trekking Preparation 1st Post

Trekking Preparations Made Within Reach at Quiapo

All the personal preparations one needs for an expedition trek to the Himalayas are all in the vicinity of Quiapo.

Upon the advice of Dr. Jodell Coates, consult with Sports Medicine Doctor, Dr. Edmund Martinez at the Hospital of the Holy Infant Jesus at Laong-Laan St. near the corner of A. Lacson Ave. (Sampaloc District) presenting the results of laboratory requirements* for an indication of a trekker’s state of health.

Most of the laboratory testings can be done at the nearby hospitals (St. Jude, UST, DOH, Infant Jesus). Laboratories at Rizal Avenue (Sta. Cruz District) in front of the DOH can process your requirements in half a day, in time for presentation to the Sports Doctor at 11 AM-2 PM at his Laong Laan clinic. Make sure you bring your specimens taken after a 10-hour fasting.

Chest xray is at P 140, CBC is P 90, routinary blood, rine and fecal analysis for P 770. Sexually related screenings are at P 740. At the Avenue Medical Lab at 1728 Rizal Avenue, this is estimated at P 1,500. Stress and advanced pulmonary tests available at the St. Jude Hospital will cost an additional P 3,000. Dr. Martinez charges a nominal consultation fee for the interpretation and supplemental diagnosis. He takes a particular look at the borderline blood reading values and the bones.

What we dread in alpine climb is the prevention of the Acute Mountain Sickness symptoms, which occurs in unacclimatized people who ascend to altitudes greater than 2,500 m. The sandy basin of Gorak Shep Everest Base Camp is at 5,160m (16,929ft ASL). The prescribed antidote is Gingko Biloba at 24% flavonoids and 6% terpenoids. The Health Express at the SMC City San Lazaro is at a reduced price of P 5.33 per capsule/30mg. Petroleum Jelly, for the prevention of dryness is sold at any nearby drugstore.

First aid requirements such as triangular bandage, elastic bandage, sterilized gauze pads will cost less than P 150 at the medical supplies at Rizal Avenue.

Your protection against the blinding whites of the snow and the sun is a rated UV sunglasses sold at Pedro Paterno St. With treated and graded lens, add P 850 to your P 1,500 quality frame.

Thermals are available at 168 Mall at Soler St. Undershirt and pants are priced at P 450-750 per set. For the outer garments, there are ukay-ukay all around in case you can live with them.

Document the awesome Himalayas with either a digital or a film camera available along R. Hidalgo St. Supplement your digital camera with a spare li-ion batttery pack (less than a thousand for branded Nikon) and an extra gigabyte of compact flash (P 800 for a gig).

Viewing the chronicle of Michael Palen of BBC entitled Himalaya that spans over 2,000 mile length of the mountain range for 6 months that started in Pakistan/Agfhan mid May 2003 ending in Bhutan in April 2004 gives you an advanced feel of the expedition. Particularly interesting is the trek from Annapurma to the Everest Base Camp. This BBC documentary titled Michale Palin Pole to Pole is spotted at Arlegui St. Complement the video with a reading of Abner Mercado’s “Sa Bubungan ng Mundo” available for P 150 at the National Book Store (Recto or Avenida). The Lonely Planet’s Nepal and Tibet makes a handy reference but for a stiff cost of P 1,500.

As Michael Palin says in his documentary, Himalayas is the natural way to get high. Paraphrased, "if it opens our eyes to the epic and the magnificent land, to experience not only the demanding physical travel but also a spiritually satisfying journey."

Lastly, after all the preparations have been made, do not forget for thanks and divine guidance at the Quiapo Church.

This alpine trek is made within reach to us because of Quiapo and its nearby districts.
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*Physical preparation and capability based on health conditions as indicated by the medical tests recommended by Expedition Physician Nepal Dr. Jodell Coates covering a.) pulmonary b.) stress c.) liver, kidney and blood condition and d.) absence of sexually related viruses

**Personal First Aid Kit
1. triangular bandage (2 or 3)
2. elastic bandage 3-inch width (2)
3. sterilized gauze pad 20 pads.
4. anti histamine also for possible allergies. (Cetirizine (Virlix) 10 mg/tab 5 tabs).

Tragic Ironies

Tragic Ironies

Professor Liviu Librescu, 76, a Romanian-born Israeli academic survived the Holocaust but was executed by the bullets of Cho Seung-hui. The professor was one of the 32 victims in the Virginia Tech shooting of the 23-year old South Korean student.

Julia Campbell, 40 won over the insurgents and the natural calamities in Bicol but lost in relatively peaceful Batad, a barangay of the town Banaue.

Cho, the assailant attacked violently in words and in action:
"You had a hundred billion chances and ways to have avoided today. But you decided to spill my blood. You forced me into a corner and gave me only one option. The decision was yours. Now you have blood on your hands that will never wash off”
"You have vandalized my heart, raped my soul and torched my conscience," "You thought it was one pathetic boy's life you were extinguishing. Thanks to you, I die like Jesus Christ, to inspire generations of the weak and the defenseless people."

US President George W. Bush in a poetic tone projected a very caring president:
"Laura and I have come to Blacksburg today with hearts full of sorrow. This is a day of mourning for the Virginia Tech community. And it is a day of sadness for our entire nation."

"I know many of you feel awfully far away from people you lean on, people you count on during difficult times. But as a dad, I can assure you, a parent's love is never far from their child's heart. And as you draw closer to your own families in the coming days, I ask you to reach out to those who ache for sons and daughters who will never come home."

The well-loved Julia from her blog is an adventurer and as such, a risk taker. She survives them all until the last few days she was to leave. She is remembered for her blog line, “Buhay pa tayo,” still alive reeling from the effects of the typhoons and floods of Bicol. Such a tragic irony that a recreation took Julia’s life.

Through the blog and their writings, we learned straight away what drives them. Such is the power of the word, either written or in video form. They give away our inner most selves. Does web logging put us writers at risk? Ingat lang po.

Map courtesy of the PALMC Bontoc Circuit

The kindness of Baler folks

The kindness of Baler folks, the wonder of nature in a grand magnitude

“Saan po ang mataas na tuktuk dito na kita ang lahat?” casually inquired from a first aid volunteer at the Sabang beach front. “Yung may pulang bubong sa dulo nitong beach. Balik muna kayo ng bayan, labas sa palengke at tuloy kayo sa may Pingit.” “Salamat po,” we replied. Simple instructions that went with hand gesture led us to Ermita Hill.

“Malapit na po ba ang matandang balete tree?” Mga 5 kilometro na lang. Kaliwa dito. Pag may natanaw kayong Iglesia ni Kristo sa highway kanan kaagad. Ikot lang sa iskwelahan at matatananaw niyo na.” “Maraming salamat po.” From the waiting shed where we inquired, it was about 5 kilometers in my odometer as described.

“May mabibilhan pa bang buko?” “Pagmaramihan wala na po. Subukan niyong kumanan diyan tapos ng palengke. May isang bahay sa may kanto na nagbenbenta ng buko. Di po naman alam kung nagpaakyat sila ngayong Sabado.” After some more inquiries, we found Manang near the cockpit with several thousands of buco freshly picked by the nagpipitas. We had to haul them by ourselves. She served us buco for our rehydration.

As impulsive backpackers, we cover as much as we can from the leads we get from any source; maps, internet, public assistance handouts, waiters, front desk personnel, man on the street, tricycle driver, street vendor, even technical data from the weather bureau. In this Baler visit, we saw all the places we wanted to see, thanks to the kind and helpful residents of Baler. When inquiring how far the Manuel Luis Quezon monument was, our Bay’s Inn waiter picked at random accurately provided us with an approximate walking time and the exact corners to cover.

The desire to assist was not isolated. On the way out of the town proper, a portion of the main road was closed due to the Holy Week procession dis-orienting us. We stopped by and asked a fellow on the street, “saan po ba ang palengke?” The guys did not simply tell us to go straight. He counted 3 blocks and even gave the street name “Recto” to turn left.

While walking the wall dividing the Canili River and the gorge, we spotted a resident going to the same direction. Casually I asked, “Magandang hapon po. Ito na ba ang Canili?” That opening question was readily answered with a string of other relevant info. On the spot, we learned that the wall was constructed to divert the water towards Pantabangan, Canili was the last Barangay of Ma. Aurora, our next stop would be the province of Viscaya, in about 30 minutes time, we will be driving through cemented roads. Our handy resource person assured us that we were just about 2 hours to Cabanatuan. (As we parted, only then did I notice the grand gorge again. So overwhelming that I failed to take a second look at the ducks roaming around freely at the lake.)

The most difficult were those not indicated in the map. The road out of Baler via Ma. Aurora where we discovered the awesome gorge was easy to trace. So was the challenging dirt road up to the PAGASA station. As it was the peak season and Barangay Labasin could only offer limited rooms, we were willingly supplied with information from the personnel on where to go next. We eventually got not one room but an entire empty resort for a song.

Finding where to buy buco was the most challenging as there are truly no buying centers, only temporary makeshifts. Through the Baler folks where we were served a hundred per cent with all our inquiries for directions , we found it. That to us was the ultimate destination, more than the grand points of attractions.

Baler made us experience what Marcel Proust a French literary artist in early 19th century wrote, “The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.” People take the centerstage more than the landscape. It has always been for Baler, all the time. Happy Easter!

-Chito

Finding buko

Balete estimated to be 600 years

Chasing waterfalls. Field testing technical gears

River at Canili that stands still like a Lake

Awesome gorge across Canili River

Flagellants on Good Friday

Accommodation for a song

Radar hat

-Fotos by Marc C.

Revisiting Baler. Go East!

Revisiting Baler. Has Baler changed after 1998 and Yoyong/Reming in 2004?

What's has become of Baler after the 2004 typhoon cut it off from the rest of Luzon. Has it lost its appeal? Has the already inaccessible become more inaccessible? Two ways to get there, the original road via Bongabon at the slope of Sierra Madre (121 kms from Cabanatuan junction in about 4 hours) and the Canili-Pantabangan-Rizal Road that cuts through the Sierra Madre at the upper North (about 101 km in less than 4 hours). The Bongabon route is challenging to both the truck and the driver. The Canili gorge that must drop to over a thousand feet from the dam wall is awesome.

With strong cold winds and incessant wave sounds, it is like still Christmas on Holy Thursday in Sabang and Cemento. The Pacific Ocean sets up the playround for board surfing even during summer. These conditions in spite of the long and slowm bumpy and jumpy land travel has made Baler a destination to thrill seeking adventurers.

Pagasa is now manned by the team of Arthur, Jun and Elvie with an upgraded land tracking radar. Solar cells provide power supply to the low wattage equipment like computers and monitors but a generator runs the critical device, the tracking radar. Personnel rely more on cell phone technology which has taken over their exclusive band frequencies to secure data from national and international offices. Like the predecessor Mang Amado, they are gregarious even to unexpected visitors like us. The scenery from the radar roof deck gives one a panoramic landscape of the Eastern edge of the Philippines. Arthur recounts how magnificently the sunrise showed up at the Pagasa station at the turn on the millennium 31 December 1999 to the delight of the international sunray watchers.

Aurora is linked via cell and the internet. 1998 Go East article is posted at the batangbaler.com website. Surfing now means board surfing and internet surfing whereas before linkage to Baler was only via Pagasa, the military and government offices. The residents narrate that Baler was the last bastion of the 1899 Filipino-Spanish war for the simple reason that the forty soldiers and 4 officers did not know the war has ended. End of war was announced January 1899. Report reached Baler on 2 June 1899, 6 months after the declaration.

A concrete fish port has been constructed. It serves as a central exchange for boat riding fishermen, a landmark doubling as a province' point of interest. At the edge you see the bay from another vantage point.

Sabang is the center of action late afternoon, centro the venue for devotion and contrition. On late afternoons during the Holy Week, two live actions are happening simultaneous within striking distance-the exhibition of surfers at the bay and the pagaspas and procession at the Centro. Their proximity allows the reluctant penitent and vacationer to cover both.

There is no tag price to nature. Bay Inn, our casually appointed clubhouse is a backpackers' paradise. Bay Inn personnel are service oriented, the food and facilities satisfying. The variety of food offered at superior value and courteous service makes keeps you coming back for the next meal. The staffs' handy info on the province' various points of interest makes even a transient feel that he has not left home.

There is an abundance of pristine natural resources in great magnitude. While rich in history, Baler to the uninitiated is an imagery of kilometers of coastline, hectares of tropical forests, series of mountain ranges, water falls and natural spring water, century old trees and high and forceful waves.

The Baler Boy is still helpful and accommodating. Everyone you meet gives the right direction to any destination. No one puts a value to their goods and services. At Mang Emilio De La Torres' resort in Barangay Pingit, we only paid for the price of a fast food value meal for camping and for the use of the entire facilities.

What makes one keep coming back to Baler? It remains to be the destination for recluse that offers courtesy and hospitality, basic and affordable amenities and power-packed action in a natural setting.

Thank you Baler.

8 April 2007
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GO EAST!
Surf and Trek in Baler Aurora
-Chito Razon

You’ve explored Sagada after reading Mabuhay Magazine. Set foot on the highest land in Luzon Mt. Pulag mainly out of curiosity seeing several backpackers in Session Road every Christmas. Snorkeled in Busuanga Palawan because your friends in adventure clubs rave about the corrals. Hiked the rugged terrain of Sabtang, Batanes enticed by the photo feature in Action Asia. Suspended time in Laoag and freed it in Pagudpud.

And you thought you’ve seen enough of Luzon?

Not until you visit Baler, Aurora, 6 ½ hours via 4WD from Manila or 7 1/2 hours by public.

The very minute you move out of Cabanatuan and Palayan cities, you know you are setting foot into something new and different. Especially when you zigzag through Sierra Madre at an elevation of 600 M ASL.

You know you’ve exited Nueva Ecija and entered the Province of Aurora when the bald mountain scenery turns fully forested and green. (Who cut all the trees of Nueva Ecija? Who fought hard to preserve the forests of Aurora?)

You are midway between Cabanatuan and Baler when you reach the stopover at the Aurora Memorial National Park base. There is a DENR office serving as the gateway to the national park. (The staff says a guide and a permit are required to proceed to the peak. The officer in the office if he is around issues the permit. Otherwise, you’ll have to secure it in Baler.)

You are nearing Baler when the rugged bumpy ride shifts to a smooth and fast glide, elevation drops to 45 M ASL and instead of riding on the mountain ridge, there is a mountain wall facing you.

Unlike in Real, Quezon after traversing Sierra Madre, there is window opening to the Pacific Ocean visible from the highway. In Baler, you arrive at the Central Terminal asking in disbelief “Is this it?” No view, no sea, no open space?

Centro just serves as your gateway to the real wonder beyond the town and replenishment for necessities. Townfolks are friendly and helpful, you’ll feel immediately at home even if you’re a stranger. Everyone is more than willing to give leads-the tricycle driver, tindera, policeman, the grocery owner of Moreno’s grocery, the student you’re sharing the top load with and especially so the village folks. Bia sells for P 20.0 per kilo (8 pieces), meat at P 80.0.

A 5-minute tricycle ride leads you to Sabang, the East edge of the island. Sabang is the site of the 1st Aurora Surfing Cup held last February 1998 sponsored by an international adventure magazine Action Asia. This is the place to surf, stay, dine, dance and get drunk. Waves run up to 6 meters high intermittently making it ideal for the sport.

Move further South and you’re in a lost world of Cemento. You no longer think Luzon when you’re here. Trek for 2 hours in a rugged road with the sight and sound of the Pacific Ocean at your left and a steep 600-meter slope of dense forest at your right. So thick and so full is the forest that in the entire 2-hour trek, there is no way to trek up except through the erosion. To scale to the top you don’t hike, you rock climb.

Every moment of the trek is an ideal stopover. Who wouldn’t stop for the 3 to 6 meter high waves, coves, clean and windy air, the open sea, rock formations and sandy shores and on the other side, the mountain wall, waterfalls, "flowing" mineral water?

Every mountaineer knows there is more to see at the top. The last 45 minutes brought us to the PAGASA radar station. Location at 150 M ASL gave us a vista from an elevated plain-a paradise like cove at the right almost uninhabited. Incessantly, we were refreshed with the flow of wind fresh from the ocean that is free from contaminants and pollutants and showered with pure distilled rainwater. Viewing sunrise from the edge, it was as if we were the first to see light in the entire Philippine Island.

While we were at the remote, isolated island outdoors, indoors, we had access to a laboratory. Mang Amado of the Atmospheric Servicing Administration welcomed us as visitors. With an impending Typhoon Loleng coming, we observed in a manner of hours how to track a storm, read barometric changes, measure rainfall, temperature, wind velocity and trace wind directions. Reporting to the national office for everyone else to know completed the cycle.

We woke up early Sunday morning aware that Loleng was no longer stationary and veering towards the Visayas, a first hand info assuring us we can safely go back home.

Before leaving Baler, we imposed upon ourselves that we must at least surf at Baler Bay in Sabang and eat lunch at Bay Inn. Surfing and trekking in Baler in a day and a half, we asked ourselves, “Were we really in Luzon?”

For sure, it’s a place where we want to come back and stay longer. Catch it before the unspoilt, almost pristine, natural and unpretentious" wonder with minimum of man-made amenities as described by modern chronicler Amadis Ma. Guerrero goes the way of the Infanta and Real Quezon, progressing and commercializing.

Surfing and trekking Baler Aurora with CBR and the Solidtrekkers Mitch Soria, Bernard Cruz, Jay Garino, Glenn Ong, Rose Salundaguit 17-18 October 1998.

-tochs@excite.com 22 Oct 1998
-revisit with Jonnell and Marc April 2007

East South North

For the Holy Week 2007 season, there are three choices for selection with my 2 other intrepid, hopefully generous co-travelers:

1. East. A revisit of Baler, Aurora estimated at 246 km from Manila with a 3-hour travel time to Cabanatuan and another 3-4 hour ride to Baler.

2. South. A revisit of the Marinduque Island with a straight line distance of 156 km from Manila, 3 hours of which is travel time to Dalahican near Lucena.

3. North. Participant in the PALMC Bontoc circuit the starting point is about 279 km from Luneta and another 3 days of non stop trekking.

How we will select is mainly on whim and the influence of other new participants. Even with the tsunami at Salomon islands last 2 April, we have not ruled out Baler. We are still open to ideas and invitations.

Map from mapzone