At the onset of flooding in Baguio City caused by Typhoon Pepeng, media is one in expressing, Baguio, the respite from the city has become one congested city too. Thus the recall of this article written in 1998 when we declared that to simulate the authentic Baguio atmosphere, one must escape farther up North, to Sagada.
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There is Still Magic in Sagada
There is still magic in Sagada despite the thousand lowlanders who escaped from Baguio and the city this Christmas 1998. Like a fairy tale, it starts with a struggle of several refusals in various instances ending happily with an unexpected fulfillment.
No Ride. We missed the Lizardo Bus at the Dangwa station in Baguio for the direct trip to the town. As early as 6 in the morning of Sunday 28 December, all the 6 buses were filled up and dispatched early.
No lodging. All inns were full. Some patient travelers had to contend with the hospital bed at the community hospital. That included us.
No Food. We were rejected several times at the Log Cabin, St. Joseph, Masfierre Inn and Shamrock for food and drinks.
Still there was magic in Sagada. The Celestine Prophecy attributed it to the pure energy of the mountain. James Redfield explained it as
“the need to begin expecting miracles that will reveal our true mission in life. If we stay true to our life mission and do the inner work necessary to allow us to get out of our own way, opportunities will present themselves to help you with your problems.” Yet, despite the challenging incidences that Christmas holiday, everything just flowed.
I planned this trip in December and finalized the details only in Baguio via pager with my friends in Manila the day before. All met at Chowking in Session Road Sunday from various origins. I came from Baguio, two straight from the bus from Manila and one from the beach of San Fernando La Union. Mitch Soria, a PALMC colleague, Arney Nocum, a freelance photographer and a broadcaster, Tec Mañalac, a youth leader working at the Office of the Manila Mayor and I were directed to a bus headed for Bontoc. We got off at junction and hitched a ride in an open van. We were treated to an open-air view of the Sagada Mountain together with about twenty other passegers.
Upon arrival at the cooperative store, we saw Dax and Beatrice, our friends from PSI (People Synergistically Involved) who invited us at the St. Mary's orphanage (now rented by a Canadian Funded NGO IA for Transformation). That free accommodation freed a lot of time all for us. It was a big relief to first timers Arney and Tec who had no idea what was in store for them.
How can Sagada not enchant anyone? We were billeted in an old, big schoolhouse made of wood, now a rare commodity in this town. We experienced a 10° C on our first morning, the coldest ever for the year 1998 we were told. The pine trees bursting with pine cones all over surrounding the valley contributed to the cold, clean air that lingered with us all throughout our 3-day stay. Baguio may have been like this over 50 years ago with hardly any vehicle polluting the air. Like staying in a country club, we were given a welcome treat. Beatrice and Dax put up a bonfire at the school house' spacious front yard to warm us up.
Sagada to me is one modestly-sized theme park with the exception that everything is in its natural state. The country music of John Denver and Kenny Rogers played incessantly at the buses complemented the clean country atmosphere. To move from one wonder to the next, one walks for as short as 5 minutes from the Plaza (Echo Valley) to a long half a day (Sumaging Cave or the big waterfall).
We viewed the morning sunrise amidst streaks of light and mist at the Keltepan tower at the East Side of Sagada at six in the morning (elevation about 2,200 meters ASL). The group witnessed the same sun go down from the top of Lake Danum Mountain at the west side. Instead of streak of lights, the sun displayed various shades and layers of orange and blue set in pure un-adulterated air. We stayed until the threatening clouds claimed the view and the temperature dropped.
The entire town celebrated the Cañao wedding which kept everyone, residents and a close to thousand guests alive the whole night of Monday even with the 9 PM curfew imposed. This gave drinkers like Mitch and I a chance to enjoy beer at the Shamrock.
We walked North, East, South, West and trekked from 1,200 meters to 2,200 meters ASL. Dived at the waterfalls, entered the cave, patronized handicrafts, ate a lot of red rice, drank a lot of Sagada tea, met old friends like Ronald and Avic Arcilla, forged new friendships with Raul Lejano and Ron of Toyota. We expelled the urban air of Baguio and Manila and breathed in fresh ones from the mountains.
Why it there still magic in Sagada? Sagada this year was
different. Different from last summer and the 1996 holidays when there was just
a handful of guests. What with all these lowlanders, I thought the place has
lost its charm. But in the company of Mitch, Arney and Tec and the energy all
around us, nature still worked on us. It energized us to do about almost
everything that can be done. It erased all the obstacles that got into our way.
Means showed up when they was no ride to the town, no inns at the Plaza, no
food, no way to the sunrise and no way to the sunset and no ride way back to
Baguio and Manila.
We sneaked out of Sagada in a passenger jeep at 5:30 am on
the 30th Tuesday to Bontoc to take the 7 AM bus ride to Baguio via Dangwa
Transit. At past noon, we were perhaps the first batch backpackers to be back
in Baguio from the enchanted place.
Then with the fun group of Jerry Balignasa and Russel Aguinaldo, we met up with the PALMC Group headed by Mayan, Wing, Art, Minerva, Ivy, Rhoda, Darwin, Ruel, Juno and his wife. We got a preview of the adventures of federation climbers as Jun Cipriano, Jun Martin, Gerry Girl N., Butch Ballesteros, Resil, Rudgir, Loyd, Ann, Joy and Dulce who trekked up to Pulag that same weekend led by EL Romy Valdes. We drank and narrated with gusto our stories until the bus trip, scheduled late that night until early morning, signaled it's time to go.
Traveling back to Manila on the 31st, I kept on hearing in
my mind the song of the late John Denver asking to be brought home to country
road where he belongs. With all these enchantment, we asked why don't we belong
there too?
Recalling these enjoyable experiences, I looked back at the
5th Insight of the Celestine Prophecy, “the 5th insight deals with how we don't
have to steal energy from others but instead can absorb energy directly from
the universe if only we can open up to it."
Like magic, we were under the spell of this energy. It came
neither from Baguio nor Manila but from opening ourselves up to the influences
of nature from Sagada and Pulag and the company we were with.
Sagada, Mountain Province
26-28 December 1996
The Serenity of Sagada and Mt. Data
A stillness in the
woods. Serenity in nature. Or serenity amidst insurgency, if you wish.
In Bontoc, the
capital of Mountain Province, an Armed Personnel Carrier rumbles through the
main street and helicopters fly overhead. Foot soldiers patrol the mountain
roads leading to Sagada. And at the Mt. Data Hotel, helicopters and Sikorsky
gunshots land men and supplies only a kilometer away, in the process destroying
some vegetables. A hunt for NPA rebels is on.
Local and foreign
tourists need not be discouraged, however, for the areas seem relatively safe
for civilians and visitors keep coming in. But don’t travel with the military
and don't go to Mt. Data at night, for the military has clamped a 7 p.m.
curfew.
Sagada and Mt. Data
may be reached through Baguio, with several bus lines-including Dangwa Tranco
and D’ Rising Sun-plying the route In
Mt. Data, there is only the Mt. Data Hotel but in Sagada, there are several
inns and resthouses-the best known being Masferre, St. Joseph’s and Daoas-all
with inexpensive rates and affordable meals.
Perched 6,000 feet
above sea level, the town of Sagada continues to cast a spell over Filipino and
foreign writers and artists, European backpackers and cave explorers.
There are an
undetermined number of caves in Sagada, some with very clear and very deep
waters, and interesting rock formations. Once a native boy fell into a hole,
survived on water, then emerged in another barrio a month later.
At the mouths of
the caves are the burial grounds and hanging coffins of the Igorots and other
tribes of Mountain Province. The tribal believe that the sprits of their
departed are happier when their coffins are suspended and wedged above ground. Alas,
some of the coffins with ornate designs have been stolen, and sold to antique
dealers and collectors. Some of the
bones date back to 100 years.
Our native guide knocked
on one long coffin and then left a lighted cigarette atop it. “Pasigarilyuhin natin siya para sumaya,”
he intoned.
One large cave,
Sumaging, takes a whole day to explore. Once deep inside the cave, the guide
said, foreigners (men and women) have no qualms about stripping to their
underwear so their outer garments won’t get wet.
Two adventurous
members of our group-photographer Rex Toledo and assistant Benjie
Espartero-ventured into the cave, with the help of the guides, but had to give
up at a certain point because of the darkness (light from the Petromax was
insufficient) and the treacherous holes.
There are pine
trees all around Sagada, and a fascinating valley with well-maintained
vegetable terraces. The town is not too commercialized, and it should be kept
this way. Baguio must have looked like
this during the olden days.
Less publicized-but
higher and colder than Sagada or Baguio-is the Mt. Data Hotel, about two-hour
ride from Sagada. From a distance you
can see Mt. Pulog, the second highest mountain in the Philippines (next to Mt.
Apo). And in Benguet, enroute to Baguio from Mt. Data, you will come across the
highest point on the Philippine Highway System (watch for the sign), elevation
7,400 feet, with a panoramic view of the mountains and the vegetable terraces.
The Mt. Data Hotel
has 22 cozy rooms, a much-needed giant fireplace, and hot and cold water, among
other amenities. By day you can hike,
and watch the sun rise and set over the great Cordillera ranges.
At night, you can
play chess, squabble or cards, gather round the fireplace and sing (bring a
guitar along). Better still, you can, upon request, watch authentic dances and
rituals of the Bontoc tribe, climaxed by an “audience participation” number in
which you will be give a simultaneous massage: A Bontoc woman massages your
head and back while a Bontoc man massages your feet with a stick. (It tickles, but only at first.)
Whether Peace Zones
and War Zones, surrounded by pine trees and wild flowers, far away from Manila,
Sagada and Mt. Data continue to be a refuge for nature lovers. --1992
-Amadis Ma.
Guerrero, Traveller’s Choice From North to South (Metro Manila
Philippines: Anvil Publishing House, Inc. 1993)
Logic ng
Sagada - Ang Ibang Ibig Sabihin ng Magic
26-27 December 1996
Puede
Ring SAKANA for both of us or SAGAD na SAGAD. It all started when Mitch said he
was going to Baguio even before the holidays. All PAL members of Commonwealth
invited themselves. I didn’t. Because I was only available after the 26th. And
Mitch said “magSasagada ako kung may
kasama ako.” Mula noon I get inquiries and lines like “See you in Baguio on the 25th.”
Nagconfirm
ako sa 074-442-xxxx 10:30 p.m. ng 25 December ”Mitch dadating ako sa 26 ng umaga. Huwag kang aalis, magSasagada tayo.
Oo namang ang sabi niya.” 5 AM. Sa
Session Road, malamig na malamig 12°C,
nangising ng lasing “6:30 AM ang biyahe
sa Sagada, magpack ka na at makita tayo sa Chowking.”
·
Lake Danum-Mitch’s favorite. Except
that his meditation at the peak was cut short by my hurrying up. Some guys said
8 minutes to the Lake. True enough, exactly in 8 minutes, we were there. Pero
saan ang daan papuntang Demang?
·
The Lardizabal Series-you’re not in
the track. Go back and set into my lot if you want to do cross-country at Mt.
Ampacao. He was accommodating enough to pick us up at the main road to St.
Joseph and showed us the back down to St. Joseph. My name is Lardizabal. Sir,
where is the way to Mt. Ampacao?
·
The Ramon Series-are you here for the
___? Bawal dito. Ano ang tunay mong pangalan? Come on , tell the truth.
·
The Lizardo Line Series-Senior citizen
and students-No ID, No discount. Smoking With Free Ride. No Smoking, no free
ride. Pero nasaan ang Pulag?
·
The Novi Encounter at Chowking-kung
sasama sa Pulag, kung si Wing ay pupunta sa Sagada and kung kailan aakyat si
Mayan. Most importantly kung sino ang kasama ni Noving babae. At bakit siya hindi kasama sa PAL?
·
Go to Sagada House-is it the same as
going to Sagada weaving?
·
Inn Hoping-ang Shamrock, para sa mga
rockers
·
Ang Country Inn-ang most expensive sa
rooms at sa beer
·
Masferre-ang pinakamatagal sa service
·
Ang Log Cabin-ang pinakamasarap at
pinakasosyal. Isnubish rin
·
St. Joseph-pinakahomey. Mapiyaaw-ang
pinakamalayo.
·
Village Bistro-ang pinakamadilim. Casa
Olahbinan-pinakamaiinit dahil sa fireplace
·
Casa Hamada-pinaka accommodating
·
Jayvee Gayoso and Jet Araneta-sino
sila? At ang gaganda ng mga chicks nila. Isama mo narin ang 4-wheel drive nila.
·
Ano ang scientific massage-pressure
per inch. Magkano?
·
Ang kwento ng babaeng ma kasamang
puti-ang lost camera at and lost guide from Bontoc. Sino sa dalawa ang
sisipinging ko.
·
Whatever Mitch Wants, He Gets-guide sa
kweba, si Willy and Exekiel. Photographs from Peter the Singaporean and Gerardo
the Brazilian. Ano ang address nila?
·
Bidang bida ako-kasi sabi ng hapon sa
akin “Herro.”
·
Ang mga tanong ni Mitch-Nasaan si
Wing, Nasaan si Art. Nasaan ang Kiltepan Tower? Nasaan ang beer? Bakit walang
mist sa bibig dahil walang ilaw. Bakit simang ang babae sa Tamaraw FX? Kasi
lumampas daw sila sa Baguio. Bakit lito ang mga babaeng taga bangko sa St.
Joseph? Kasi walang bangko. Sino si Mario de Vera at bakit puro Solano ang
kwento nila? Kasi puro Louisians.
It
was trip well worth. Pagadating sa Baguio hindi makapagrelate sa tao sa Session
Road, sa mga barkada sa likod ng Mountain Crest at sa top of the world. At
nagpakalasing.
Bakit?
Kasi iyan ang logic ng Sagada. Happy New Year!
Chito Razon 17 Jan 1998 Revisited 11 Oct 2009
This 20 December, I was privileged to witness the UP College of Medicine Alumni Society’s recognition of the Diamond Jubilarians (50 years after graduation from College) as organized by the Silver Jubilarians (25 years after CM) in Homecoming Ball 2009 aptly tagged as “Pagbabalik sa Bulwagan ng Talino at Galing.”
